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  #141  
Old 24 September 2019, 22:27
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EchoFiveMike EchoFiveMike is offline
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I have not had an issue yet. Is the issue the solvent or the process? 7075 anodized stuff. S/F....Ken M
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  #142  
Old 25 September 2019, 08:04
Steve788 Steve788 is offline
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I have not had an issue yet. Is the issue the solvent or the process? 7075 anodized stuff. S/F....Ken M
This unit has un-anodized baffles, along with interior of tube.
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  #143  
Old 25 September 2019, 12:03
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OSS recommends soaking in a bore solvent. I think they have a vid using Hoppes. Non Flow-Through may need a follow-up rinse with boiling water or Isopropyl - there are some threads on arfcom about this. One tip was to weigh your can brand new, and then at intervals, to get an idea of the build-up.
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  #144  
Old 25 September 2019, 13:47
Steve788 Steve788 is offline
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Yeah, with .22LR you get significant lead spatter/vapor condensation on
the baffles. "She a dutty, dutty girl..."

Looks like an ounce of prevention is the key...and DOT 5 (not 3, 4, or 5.1)
is the shizzle for basting interior surfaces.

https://web.archive.org/web/20160627...-cleaning.html
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  #145  
Old 25 September 2019, 13:48
Steve788 Steve788 is offline
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Edit to Above (since there's no edit tab): Hoppe's doesn't touch lead.
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  #146  
Old 25 September 2019, 15:33
DirtyDog0311 DirtyDog0311 is offline
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Originally Posted by EchoFiveMike View Post
I have not had an issue yet. Is the issue the solvent or the process? 7075 anodized stuff. S/F....Ken M
IIRC, its a combination of both. Synergistic I think was the word I read. Especially on non-anodized stuff. This is all just internet/Fudd Lore so IDK. I haven't tested it myself. If you aren't having an issue, and your stuff looks good, then I'd say ignore. This is all regarding Aluminum, btw. The SS, inconel, and other spacemagic alloys are GTG for an ultrasonic bath, according to manufacturers.

FWIW, the exact combo I was reading about was heated Simple Green in an ultrasonic cleaner.
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  #147  
Old 25 September 2019, 17:50
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EchoFiveMike EchoFiveMike is offline
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Simple Green eats aluminum.

First hand, a 1970's jewelers ultrasonic using a mild detergent in heated water has not hurt anodized 7075 and 6061 yet.

I soda blast my baffles if I'm really feeling autistic, but I have a machine shop. S/F....Ken M
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"If you remember nothing else about what I’m about to consider here, remember this: the one and only reason politicians, bureaucrats, and policemen want to take your weapons away from you is so that they can do things to you that they couldn’t do if you still had your weapons."— L. Neil Smith

“The consolidation of the states into one vast empire, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of ruin which has overwhelmed all that preceded it.”
- Robert E. Lee
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  #148  
Old 25 September 2019, 19:18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EchoFiveMike View Post
Simple Green eats aluminum.
Banned from aviation use a while back for that reason.

I don't have a better answer though. Haven't weighed my Gemtech .22 can since I bought it, scared to now

I have a .22 upper for my AR, that I shoot with a 5.56 can, I generally throw the 5.56 upper back on afterwards and shoot a mag through. According to the internet that totally removes all the lead.


,
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  #149  
Old 25 September 2019, 19:22
DirtyDog0311 DirtyDog0311 is offline
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Originally Posted by EchoFiveMike View Post
but I have a machine shop.
Now I'm jealous.....
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  #150  
Old 25 September 2019, 19:24
Steve788 Steve788 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkdrver View Post
I have a .22 upper for my AR, that I shoot with a 5.56 can, I generally throw the 5.56 upper back on afterwards and shoot a mag through. According to the internet that totally removes all the lead.
That's an interesting approach. Of course, with my lil twinky
.22LR can, a couple of rounds of 5.56 would remove leading
AND the suppressor.
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  #151  
Old 25 September 2019, 21:20
Akheloce Akheloce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkdrver View Post
Banned from aviation use a while back for that reason.


,
Yup, Here's the story that the ban resulted from:

http://www.chinook-helicopter.com/maintenance/issues/cleaners/cleaners.html
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  #152  
Old 25 September 2019, 21:35
Akheloce Akheloce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve788 View Post
Anybody have any good way(s) of cleaning lead out of aluminum
(tube and baffles) .22LR can?

I don't have a rimfire can, but I'm aware of the fact that they are lead magnets.

In my experience with shooting lots of cast bullets, is that lead needs to be removed mechanically (scrubbing). I personally haven't found a solvent that does a great job on lead fouling.

In my case, with chambers and bores, I use pure coppper (chore boy) scrubbing pad material wrapped around a brush. If the can comes apart (I think most rimfire cans do for this reason), I'd find a pure copper or brass brush and excercise the elbow.
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  #153  
Old 26 September 2019, 07:12
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hawkdrver hawkdrver is offline
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Good article:

https://www.silencershop.com/blog/po...n-my-silencer/
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  #154  
Old 26 September 2019, 08:23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve788 View Post
Edit to Above (since there's no edit tab): Hoppe's doesn't touch lead.
Forgot we were talking about .22 - it's a sealed .22 can? Thought most (all?) were able to be dissembled and the baffles/core scrubbed?
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WHO lauds lockdown-ignoring Sweden as a ‘model’ for countries going forward.

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April 29, 2020 | 3:24pm

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  #155  
Old 26 September 2019, 09:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polypro View Post
Forgot we were talking about .22 - it's a sealed .22 can? Thought most (all?) were able to be dissembled and the baffles/core scrubbed?
He said it comes apart but is going to require some blunt force
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  #156  
Old 27 September 2019, 16:43
Steve788 Steve788 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akheloce View Post
In my experience with shooting lots of cast bullets, is that lead needs to be removed mechanically (scrubbing). I personally haven't found a solvent that does a great job on lead fouling.

In my case, with chambers and bores, I use pure coppper (chore boy) scrubbing pad material wrapped around a brush. If the can comes apart (I think most rimfire cans do for this reason), I'd find a pure copper or brass brush and excercise the elbow.
YES!!

*virtual facepalm*

I'm just new into revolverdom, and working up .38/.357 for
my new-old S&W Model 64 (I already fitted it with a M66
cylinder ). Reading the wheelgun forums, the copper
ChoreBoy is great for scraping out lead. Found some (the
solid copper is uncommon, most is copper plated steel),
and it does a great job on barrel leading. My crimping
chops apparently suck, and I've gotten a lot of practice with
leading...

Why I didn't think of using *that*, for use on the baffles--
the mind works, and doesn't, in mysterious ways.

I'll use the Cu ChoreBoy next time. This time, I tried Dremel
with a bronze brush, after 24 hours in ATF/Acetone. Results
were pretty blah.

I did pick up a pint of DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, and wet
down all the baffles and inside tube. We'll see how that
works for suppressing additional deposits.
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  #157  
Old 28 September 2019, 19:01
DirtyDog0311 DirtyDog0311 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve788 View Post
I'll use the Cu ChoreBoy next time. This time, I tried Dremel
with a bronze brush, after 24 hours in ATF/Acetone. Results
were pretty blah.

I did pick up a pint of DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, and wet
down all the baffles and inside tube. We'll see how that
works for suppressing additional deposits.
Just as an FYI, I was informed that if you use a copper solvent and scrub with a bronze brush, you'll destroy your brush eventually. Bronze being an alloy of Copper and Tin.
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  #158  
Old 28 September 2019, 23:53
Steve788 Steve788 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog0311 View Post
Just as an FYI, I was informed that if you use a copper solvent and scrub with a bronze brush, you'll destroy your brush eventually. Bronze being an alloy of Copper and Tin.
Yeah, if you clean a bore with a strong copper solvent & brush,
you'll find the patches keep coming out green...for a long, long time!
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  #159  
Old 29 September 2019, 13:11
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Terry Welshan Terry Welshan is offline
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I was a police officer and competitive PPC shooter back in the 80's using cast or swaged wadcutters in SW K frame revolvers and found that a Lewis Lead Remover was pretty much an essential maintenance item for revolvers.
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  #160  
Old 2 October 2019, 17:55
low&slow low&slow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkdrver View Post
I always hesitate to offer gun opinions here but that's what I do. I have a surefire 7.62 I swap between a .300 BLK, 7.62 and the 6.5. Works good enough for what I do with it. I am actually heading to the range with a couple of them this week, I can video and hit it with a DB meter if you want.
Form 4 sent last month. Are you shooting 6.5 grendel or creedmore? Let me know how the range went and what readings you obtained.

Tanx bruddah!
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