1911 discussion

[RN47]

I posted this on another forum, and didn't get much traction other than I would have to send it back to DW to get re-coated.

Bottom line, I screwed up and sprayed some CLP on the slide of my Dan Wesson Valkyrie, left for a few minutes to take a phone call, and came back to a seemingly permanent stain on the slide. I've tried Ballistol oil and gently rubbed/brushed-- but no luck. Also tried Rem-Oil with the same negative results.

Yes, I have guns I run hard and don't care if it gets holster wear and whatnot- but this firearm was a luxury item that I simply enjoyed shooting, though it's not even broken in yet...

Any suggestions towards removing the stain is greatly appreciated; just figured someone might have an ancient Chinese secret they might share.

Thanks

[BigNickT]

I'm just spitballing but if you consider that CLP contains greases/oils that that supposedly cling to the metal better than run of the mill gun oils then it follows that using "lesser" oils to clean it of won't work. I'd try Gunscrubber or some other cleaner first to strip the CLP off, then apply another oil. I deal mostly with rust blued guns so I clean with acetone or denatured alcohol. I don't know how that might effect a different finish like the various chemical blues, coatings or parkerizing. Caution is you friend. Whatever cleaner you decide to go with pull off the grips and dab a bit on the finish in the covered area to check for reaction.

ETA: it looks like your finish reacted with something in the CLP. Can you feel any difference in the stained area?

[RN47]

No difference in the feel to the affected area. Like I mentioned I screwed up as it states in the owner's manual under maintenance;

'We do not recommend the use of Rem Oil, CLP, Hoppe's elite gun oil, Slip 2000 or various other thin gun oils or grease on our firearms....use only high quality cleaning solvent (barrel only) as solvents can discolor your Duty Finish.'

Which I ignored reading beforehand because, hey, my dumbass knows how to field strip and completely disassemble a 1911.
Hard lesson learned for being stupid. Someone recommended completely soaking the slide in Mobile One for a few days-- doesn't sound right to me.

I'll go with what you suggest and remove the grips to test out an oil recommended in the manual. Thank you for your input.

[GPC]

RN try SEAL-1 never had it stain FDE finishes or blue etc.

[BigNickT]

If you're going to end up sending the gun back to be re-coated anyway you can try buffing the area with a (very) mild abrasive like jeweler's rouge, Brasso, or a gel toothpaste. Use a cotton ball or your fingertip. Coatings are thicker than blues You have a little thickness to play with and might get away with it. The problem with fixing a nice gun is that even if it's impossible to see the repair, you'll know it's there.

[The Fat Guy]

What is the original color of the finish? Is the light color the original or the stain? I would try soaking it in CLP and see what that does. More than likely if it doesn't scrub off and as stated, you will be getting it refinished anyway. I would think it wise to consider a different finish.

[EchoFiveMike]

If the problem is staining, might as well try using a legitimate solvent, progressing from tame stuff like toluene/paint thinner to aggressive shit like acetone.

Obvious question, did you call DW and ask if they have a solution? S/F....Ken M

[GPC]

I guess the DW duty finish is more for looks than duty.

[RN47]

Originally Posted by BigNickT

If you're going to end up sending the gun back to be re-coated anyway you can try buffing the area with a (very) mild abrasive like jeweler's rouge, Brasso, or a gel toothpaste. Use a cotton ball or your fingertip. Coatings are thicker than blues You have a little thickness to play with and might get away with it. The problem with fixing a nice gun is that even if it's impossible to see the repair, you'll know it's there.

I was thinking about using some Flitz with a soft polishing cloth, but after reading the FAQ on the Dan Wesson website, I will probably hold off until I try their recommended solution.

Originally Posted by The Fat Guy

What is the original color of the finish? Is the light color the original or the stain? I would try soaking it in CLP and see what that does. More than likely if it doesn't scrub off and as stated, you will be getting it refinished anyway. I would think it wise to consider a different finish.

The original color is called Black Duty Finish--(pic attached). It is a ferritic nitrocarburizing treatment of the stainless at the molecular level. Dan Wesson's FAQ on their website specifically says do NOT use CLP as it will stain their finish.

Originally Posted by EchoFiveMike

If the problem is staining, might as well try using a legitimate solvent, progressing from tame stuff like toluene/paint thinner to aggressive shit like acetone.

Obvious question, did you call DW and ask if they have a solution? S/F....Ken M

Dan Wesson specifically mentions to avoid using products with toluene on firearms with their Duty Treat. DW customer service recommended Shooter's Choice FP-10 for everything & Kano Kroil for stubborn stains. Looks like I will be trying that.

Thanks for everyone's input- it definitely helped.

[hawkdrver]

Originally Posted by GPC

I buy guns to shoot not to look at.

Same. Kind of got off that track a little with this 1911 and a Uberti/Colt 1873 single action Army I got as a retirement gift from my guys. Only two presentation type guns I've ever owned, and it took a couple years but I've come to the conclusion that they're wasted sitting in a box or a display case.

[gavin]

Originally Posted by GPC

I guess the DW duty finish is more for looks than duty.

That is my take-away here...a weapon finish that gets marred by CLP...I'd Cerakote it and drive on.

[Flatbedder]

Originally Posted by gavin

That is my take-away here...a weapon finish that gets marred by CLP...I'd Cerakote it and drive on.

Flat Dark Earth.

[Desert Donkey]

The first handgun I ever bought was a Norinco 1911 (and I wish I still had it!), back in 1991, and I've been a 1911 fan ever since. over the years, my tastes have changed and my collection has grown, but I always keep coming back to a 1911. My daily carry is a well worn Colt O-4091U stainless Commander that has been very reliable and more accurate than I can hold.

The 1911 has had a following for more than a hundred years and counting, and even though it might be considered "obsolete" by many pistolcraft experts, in the hands of a man who knows how to use it, the 1911 still delivers.

[GPC]

Originally Posted by Desert Donkey

The first handgun I ever bought was a Norinco 1911 (and I wish I still had it!), back in 1991, and I've been a 1911 fan ever since. over the years, my tastes have changed and my collection has grown, but I always keep coming back to a 1911. My daily carry is a well worn Colt O-4091U stainless Commander that has been very reliable and more accurate than I can hold.

The 1911 has had a following for more than a hundred years and counting, and even though it might be considered "obsolete" by many pistolcraft experts, in the hands of a man who knows how to use it, the 1911 still delivers.

Norinco 1911s are no slouches. Buddy in my Guard unit had one and it kept up with my Colt all day. Great gun for the price point.

[GPC]

RN47 did you get the stain out of your DW?

[RN47]

Originally Posted by GPC

RN47 did you get the stain out of your DW?

I soaked it in Mobil 1 for about three weeks and while it is still somewhat visible, it has definitely faded and more normal looking. I took it to a local gunsmith who is familiar with all kinds of treatments hoping he could offer some advice before I ship it back to Dan Wesson. He said honestly, shoot the shit out of it. He claims about a year's worth of shooting and cleaning and those stains will go away most likely on their own.

I really like the pistol and don't envision selling it, so I'll probably just take his advice and see how it looks in several more months.

[Shark0311]

Originally Posted by RN47

I really like the pistol and don't envision selling it, so I'll probably just take his advice and see how it looks in several more months.

Wilson Combat Armor-tuff is one of the toughest finishes that I have seen. If you have to spend money getting it done I would look there.

[The Fat Guy]

Originally Posted by gavin

That is my take-away here...a weapon finish that gets marred by CLP...I'd Cerakote it and drive on.

As I have said many times before, it pains me to agree with you.......

I have a Kimber TLE II RL that was cerakoted when I bought it.

I have around 2k rounds through it and it looks like new. Like any coating, the prep work has a lot to do with the overall durability.

[gavin]

Originally Posted by Shark0311

Wilson Combat Armor-tuff is one of the toughest finishes that I have seen. If you have to spend money getting it done I would look there.

Originally Posted by The Fat Guy

I have a Kimber TLE II RL that was cerakoted when I bought it. I have around 2k rounds through it and it looks like new. Like any coating, the prep work has a lot to do with the overall durability.

I have a Colt that I sent to Wilson for "Armor Tuff" sometime around 2005. The finish still looks the same way it did when I got it back from Wilson. I have several other weapons with Cerakote and Duracote. Both are good finishes, and hold up well, just not quite as well as Armor Tuff (tend to scratch a little easier). I have one Glock slide with Robar's NP3+ treatment, also a great product, if you don't mind the shine.