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  #41  
Old 24 March 2015, 20:17
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Originally Posted by The Fat Guy View Post
So imagine an offhand shot, unsupported that throws your shot just to the left or right of the kill zone. And then add 2.5" more to the error. Now you are tracking a wounded animal for perhaps miles instead of meters. Or, it could throw the shot 2.5" back into the kill zone. The point is you will never know.
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  #42  
Old 25 March 2015, 06:50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fat Guy View Post
So imagine an offhand shot, unsupported that throws your shot just to the left or right of the kill zone. And then add 2.5" more to the error. Now you are tracking a wounded animal for perhaps miles instead of meters. Or, it could throw the shot 2.5" back into the kill zone. The point is you will never know.
Well, if you are using those itty bitty bullets of 30 cal or less that could be a problem. 45 cal, big meplate, and 400+ grain weight makes a BIG hole.
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  #43  
Old 25 March 2015, 07:25
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Well, if you are using those itty bitty bullets of 30 cal or less that could be a problem. 45 cal, big meplate, and 400+ grain weight makes a BIG hole.
I don't think they make a Mini 14 in 45 caliber that shoots a 400 grn bullet.
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  #44  
Old 7 April 2015, 17:14
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Loading/Reloading New/Used Brass

Who makes good brass? I have a ton of Wolf Gold that I am going to reload for plinking.

For match ammo, I have heard good things about Lapua, and Norma.

Anyone have brass they like to load for match ammo? Lake City?

Or does brass make any difference at all?

Thanks.
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  #45  
Old 7 April 2015, 17:37
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Brass makes a difference. Different case capacity between different manufacturers is the biggest difference. I dont shoot competition so I cant tell you anymore than that.
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  #46  
Old 8 April 2015, 01:34
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Originally Posted by Expatmedic View Post
Or does brass make any difference at all?
I cannot comment intelligently about rifle ammo, but with pistol ammo, real brass brass (regardless of brand) is statistically good for 5 to 7 reloads. Nickel brass, which some competitors prefer (and is better for carry/kill ammo because it resists corroding better and is finger-fucked a lot), is usually only good for 2 to 4 reloads before the necking gets squirrelly and cracks. Nickel may be more "slippery" than brass, but it has a lower "malleability coefficient" and is less forgiving: http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum/...-vs-brass.html

The team I used to shoot on had a couple guys that color-coded nickel brass per reload with a small colored dot on the primer.

Personally, I thought it was over-management, but these guys shoot ~800-1,000 rounds a week for years, so one can assume they knew a bit more than I.
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  #47  
Old 8 April 2015, 04:57
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Honestly, brand of brass isn't critical for 90% of stuff but using one brand consistently is a good idea. I don't go more than 4 reloads(5 firings) on brass in any autoloading gun, and I use that last loading for slow fire, where a case head separation isn't going to ruin the match. Brass work hardens, so you start getting split necks after a few reloadings, you can anneal to fix this, but that's more work than I'm interested in doing.

I color code my brass on the primer with a sharpie so I know what firing it's on.

You can sort cases by weight and such, but IMO that's a shit ton more effort than it's worth. I do uniform primer pockets and flash holes on my long range ammo, I also use a shallow taper chamfering reamer to avoid scratching the Hell out of lightly jacketed VLD bullets like Bergers, JLK's, etc. The jackets on Sierra bullets are like plumbing pipe so no need there. S/F....Ken M
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  #48  
Old 14 April 2015, 10:56
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So after much research, conversation, hours of reading, watching youtube videos, more reading, this is the culmination of my efforts:

Learned to set up my dies according to the Speer book and other sources.

New Hornady Match brass .223. Reloader-15, Federal 205M Primers, 69gr SMK's.

Starting with 22.5gr of powder with projectile seated at 2.50". Then loaded 10 ea. 22.8 gr, and 23.1gr. Hand poured each charge into the case.

Measured my charge once on a digital scale and once on a mechanical scale. Did this for each of the 30 rounds I loaded. Very time consuming, slow and methodical. But I am ok with this, it's in my comfort zone.

Its pretty cool to do something "self taught". But I need to say MANY people unknowingly had a hand in helping me learn.

Chrono is in the mail, and I will be at the range this weekend.

Thanks everyone.
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  #49  
Old 14 April 2015, 11:23
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2.50 OAL is over mag length, not sure if you planned that. Do you know what your throat length is? The point at which the rifling leade hits the seated bullet? If you're too long, the bolt will close hard, if at all, and if you unload, you'll often stick a bullet in the rifling, which will then be a royal PITA to remove.

Just FYI, if you're working according to plan, disregard. S/F.....Ken M
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  #50  
Old 14 April 2015, 11:33
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Good morning E5M,

My error. Mic'd to 2.25" OAL. The round fits into my PMags, and USGI mags without problem.

Not sure of throat length.
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  #51  
Old 14 April 2015, 12:16
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No, that should be good. Sometimes you load to longer than mag length, just making sure. S/F....Ken M
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  #52  
Old 14 April 2015, 14:22
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FYI Cost

Factory Match .223 ammo: $1.35+ per round plus tax.

Hand Loaded Match .223 made JUST for my rifle: .30 Cents per round. Tax included.
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  #53  
Old 14 April 2015, 16:19
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My .308 Win likes Reloader 15, it is temperature sensitive though. On hot days it flattens primers so I switched to Varget. Varget is not sensitive to the external temperature. Just a heads up in case you shoot in varying temperatures.
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  #54  
Old 14 April 2015, 18:05
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Looks like a Real Bullet! You must have done something right.
Waiting for chrony results.
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  #55  
Old 21 June 2015, 21:11
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Guys,

I'm just starting to get into reloading, and have a few questions I'm hoping you can help me out with. I just bought my press last weekend, its a Lee turret press, and I bought a set of Lee .223 dies and a Lyman manual. I set everything up and since I had some time, decided to dig into it today.

Question 1:
In the book, where it has the different loads for the .223, it has a diagram showing all the dimensions for the completed round, and after resizing, and trimming, I got the length in spec, but the diameter of the case is still wider than it shows in the book. I also measured a premade round that was store bought, and it was wider than the book said as well. Is there a reason this is not matching up? Or is there something I can do to get my die to size it the way the book says?

Question 2:
The cannelure is completely outside of the casing, when the OAL is 2.25 which seems odd to me. Is there a problem with that?

I made two dummy rounds and ran them through one of my AR's and it chambered just fine at that size, but I'm not so confident that its all correct.
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  #56  
Old 21 June 2015, 23:13
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Don't worry about the outside width of the case. If you have a resizing die and the round fits into your chamber, they you are good to go.

What weight / type bullet are you loading? Its odd that your OAL is 2.25 (You can go to 2.26) and the canelure is out of the case mouth. Can you post a picture?

I use the turret press and the Pro 1000's. Did you trim your brass? The critical spec is over all length of the brass and the entire cartridge. Do you have calipers to make these measurements?
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  #57  
Old 21 June 2015, 23:43
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The bullets are Hornady 55g SP Varmint. I did trim the brass and it sits right at 1.75". I used a set of digital calipers to measure everything. Is it always better to extend it to 2.26? Ive heard people mention different tricks about coating the bullet and chambering it to make sure it doesnt touch the lands and all that, but dont really know that much about it yet. I started here(the OAL that boxed ammo comes) just because it was my first couple rounds and I simply wanted to make a functioning bullet before I started experimenting too much.

Monarch crap ammo OAL 2.24, CL 1.75

Middle OAL 2.24, CL 1.75

Right OAL 2.23, CL 1.75
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  #58  
Old 22 June 2015, 00:14
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Is the brass. 223 or 5.56? Those bullets may be for a different cartridge. 2.26 is the max OAL, your load book should have a min OAL as well. While it should shoot Ok, crimping the bullet off the can elude may effect your accuracy.
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  #59  
Old 22 June 2015, 00:20
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You can seat to the middle of the cannelure or leave it where it is, if OAL is correct. Makes no real difference. The cannelure is for crimping, which helps in heavy recoiling cartridges or violent actions, like machine guns. Not applicable here. Varying OAL may effect accuracy, depending on bullet and rifle.

You have a tumbler or other case polisher? S/F.....Ken M
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  #60  
Old 22 June 2015, 00:57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fat Guy View Post
Is the brass. 223 or 5.56? Those bullets may be for a different cartridge. 2.26 is the man OAL, your load book should have a min OAL as well. While it should shoot Ok, crimping the bullet off the can elude may effect your accuracy.
I believe they are both .223. But one of them says WCC94 on it, and I got some of it from a friend. I dont see a minimum OAL in the book, but since neither of these rounds will be fired I can easily make the rest at 2.26

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Originally Posted by EchoFiveMike View Post
You can seat to the middle of the cannelure or leave it where it is, if OAL is correct. Makes no real difference. The cannelure is for crimping, which helps in heavy recoiling cartridges or violent actions, like machine guns. Not applicable here. Varying OAL may effect accuracy, depending on bullet and rifle.

You have a tumbler or other case polisher? S/F.....Ken M
I dont have a tumbler, at least not yet. I just mixed some stuff in a bucket and soaked it to clean them.

Just out of curiosity, do you guys know if there is any reason the cannelure would be so far up on this round? I guess I will ignore it and load the rest to 2.26 and go try them out, hopefully one day this week.
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